This section of Captains
Courageous provides a fascinating glimpse
into the lives of the Grand Banks fishermen in the 19th century. Sailing
to a small area in the middle of the North Atlantic on voyages lasting
many months, these hardy New Englanders, Spaniards, Portuguese and Scandinavians
were threatened not only by natural disasters but by commercial shipping
as well. As William Warner shows in Distant
Waters [],
much remained the same for the fishermen seeking cod in those same
waters a century later.
It's interesting to note that to Kipling
the commercial fishing life, and the fishermen that toiled through it,
on the Grand Banks was something that transformed an over-indulged and
obnoxious youth, a boy whom his tycoon father found somewhat repellent,
into a totally different person. This is in stark contrast to the view
of commercial fishing in some quarters today. |
CHAPTER VIII
To the end of his days, Harvey will never forget that sight. The sun
was just clear of a horizon they had not seen for nearly a week, and his
low red light struck into the riding-sails of three fleets of anchored
schooners - one to the north, one to the westward, and one to the south.
There must have been nearly a hundred of them, of every possible make and
build, with, far away, a square-rigged Frenchman, all bowing and curtseying
one to the other. From every boat dories were dropping away like bees from
a crowded hive; and the clamour of voices, the rattling of ropes and blocks,
and the splash of the oars carried for miles across the heaving water.
The sails turned all colours, black, pearly-gray, and white, as the sun
mounted; and more boats swung up through the mists to the southward.
The dories gathered in clusters, separated, re-formed, and broke again,
all heading one way; while men hailed and whistled and cat-called and sang,
and the water was speckled with rubbish thrown overboard.
'It's a town,' said Harvey. 'Disko was right. It is a town!'
'I've seen smaller,' said Disko. 'There's abaout a thousand men here;
an' yonder's The Virgin.' He pointed to a vacant space of greenish sea
where there were no dories.
The We're Here skirted round the northern squadron, Disko waving his
hand to friend after friend, and anchored as neatly as a racing yacht at
the end of the season. The Bank fleet pass good seamanship in silence;
but a bungler is jeered all along the line.
'Jest in time fer the caplin,'* cried the Mary Chilton.
'Salt 'most wet?' asked the King Philip.
'Hey, Tom Platt! Come t' supper to-night?' said the Henry Clay; and
so questions and answers flew back and forth. Men had met one another before,
dory-fishing in the fog, and there is no place for gossip like the Bank
fleet. They all seemed to know about Harvey's rescue and asked if he were
worth his salt yet. The young bloods jested with Dan, who had a lively
tongue of his own, and inquired after their health by the town-nicknames
they least liked. Manuel's countrymen jabbered at him in their own language;
and even the silent cook was seen riding the jib-boom and shouting Gaelic
to a friend as black as himself. After they had buoyed the cable - all
around The Virgin is rocky bottom, and carelessness means chafed ground-tackle
and danger from drifting - after they had buoyed the cable, their dories
went forth to join the mob of boats anchored about a mile away. The schooners
rocked and dipped at a safe distance, like mother ducks watching their
brood, while the dories behaved like mannerless ducklings.
As they drove into the confusion, boat banging boat, Harvey's ears tingled
at the comments on his rowing. Every dialect from Labrador to Long Island,
with Portuguese, Neapolitan, Lingua Franca,* French, and Gaelic, with songs
and shoutings and new oaths, rattled round him, and he seemed to be the
butt of it all. For the first time in his life he felt shy - perhaps that
came from living so long with only the We're Heres - among the scores
of wild faces that rose and fell with the reeling small craft. A gentle,
breathing swell, three furlongs from trough to barrel, would quietly shoulder
up a string of variously painted dories. They hung for an instant, a wonderful
frieze against the skyline, and their men pointed and hailed. Next moment
the open mouths, waving arms, and bare chests disappeared, while on another
swell came up an entirely new line of characters like paper figures in
a toy theatre. So Harvey stared. 'Watch out!' said Dan, flourishing a dip-net.*
'When I tell you dip, you dip. The caplin' ‘ll school any time from naow
on. Where'll we lay, Tom Platt?'
Pushing, shoving, and hauling, greeting old friends here and warning
old enemies there, Commodore Tom Platt led his little fleet well to leeward
of the general crowd, and immediately three or four men began to haul on
their anchors with intent to leebow the We’re Heres. But a yell of laughter
went up as a dory shot from her station with exceeding speed, its occupant
pulling madly on the roding.
'Give her slack!' roared twenty voices. 'Let him shake it out.'
'What's the matter?' said Harvey, as the boat flashed away to the southward.
'He's anchored, isn't he?'
'Anchored, sure enough, but his graound-tackle's kinder shifty,' said
Dan, laughing. 'Whale's fouled it.... Dip, Harve! Here they come!'
The sea round them clouded and darkened, and then frizzed up in showers
of tiny silver fish, and over a space of five or six acres the cod began
to leap like trout in May; while, behind the cod, three or four broad greyblack
backs broke the water into boils.
Then everybody shouted and tried to haul up his anchor to get among
the school, and fouled his neighbour's line and said what was in his heart,
and dipped furiously with his dip-net, and shrieked cautions and advice
to his companions, while the deep fizzed like freshly-opened soda-water,
and cod, men, and whales together flung in upon the luckless bait. Harvey
was nearly knocked overboard by the handle of Dan's net. But in all the
wild tumult he noticed, and never forgot, the wicked, set little eye—-something
like a circus-elephant's eye—of a whale that drove along almost level with
the water, and, so he said, winked at him. Three boats found their rodings
fouled by these reckless mid-sea hunters, and were towed half a mile ere
their horses shook the line free.
Then the caplin moved off, and five minutes later there was no sound
except the splash of the sinkers* over-side, the flapping of the cod, and
the whack of the muckles* as the men stunned them. It was wonderful fishing.
Harvey could see the glimmering cod below, swimming slowly in droves, biting
as steadily as they swam. Bank law strictly forbids more than one hook
on one line when the dories are on The Virgin or the Eastern Shoals; but
so close lay the boats that even single hooks snarled, and Harvey found
himself in hot argument with a gentle, hairy Newfoundlander on one side
and a howling Portuguese on the other.
Worse than any tangle of fishing-lines was the confusion of the dory-rodings
below water. Each man had anchored where it seemed good to him, drifting
and rowing round his fixed point. As the fish struck on less quickly, each
man wanted to haul up and get to better ground; but every third man found
himself intimately connected with some four or five neighbours. To cut
another's roding is crime unspeakable on the Banks; yet it was done, and
done without detection, three or four times that day. Tom Platt caught
a Maine man in the black act and knocked him over the gunwale with an oar,
and Manuel served a fellow-countryman in the same way. But Harvey's anchor
line was cut, and so was Penn's, and they were turned into relief-boats
to carry fish to he We're Here as the dories filled. The caplin schooled
once more at twilight, when the mad clamour was repeated; and at dusk they
rowed back to dress-down by the light of kerosene lamps on the edge of
the pen.
It was a huge pile, and they went to sleep while they were dressing.
Next day several boats fished right above the cap of The Virgin; and Harvey,
with them, looked down on the very weed of chat lonely rock, which rises
to within twenty feet of the surface. The cod were there in legions, marching
solemnly over the leathery kelp.* When they bit, they bit all together,
and so when they stopped. There was a slack time at noon, and the dories
began to search for amusement. It was Dan who sighted the Hope of Prague
just coming up, and as her boats joined the company they were greeted with
the question: 'Who's the meanest man in the fleet?'
Three hundred voices answered cheerily: 'Nick Bra-ady.' It sounded like
an organ chant.
'Who stole the lamp-wicks?' That was Dan's contribution.
'Nick Bra-ady,' sang the boats.
'Who biled the salt bait fer soup?' This was an unknown backbiter a
quarter of a mile away.
Again the joyfull chorus. Now Brady was not especially mean, but he
had that reputation, and the fleet made the most of it. Then they discovered
a man from a Truro boat, who, six years before, had been convicted of using
a tackle with five or six hooks—a 'scrowger'* they call it— on the Shoals.
Naturally, he had been christened 'Scrowger Jim'; and though he had hidden
himself on the Georges ever since, he found his honours waiting for him
full blown. They took it up in a sort of fire-cracker chorus: 'Jim! O Jim!
Jim! O Jim! Sssscrowger Jim!' That pleased everybody. And when a poetical
Beverly* man—he had been making it up all day, and talked about it for
weeks—sang 'The Carrie Pitman’s anchor doesn't hold her fer a cent!'
the dories felt that they were indeed fortunate. Then they had to ask that
Beverly man how he was off for beans, because even poets must not have
things all their own way. Every schooner and nearly every man got it in
turn. Was there a careless or dirty cook anywhere? The dories sang about
him and his food. Was a schooner badly found? The fleet was told at full
length. Had a man hooked tobacco from a messmate? He was named in meeting;
the name tossed from roller to roller. Disko's infallible judgments, Long
Jack's market-boat that he had sold years ago, Dan's sweetheart (oh, but
Dan was an angry boy!), Penn's bad luck with dory-anchors, Salters's views
on manure, Manuel's little slips from virtue ashore, and Harvey's lady-like
handling of the oar—all were laid before the public; and as the fog fell
around them in silvery sheets beneath the sun, the voices sounded like
a bench of invisible judges pronouncing sentence.
The dories roved and fished and squabbled till a swell underran the
sea. Then they drew more apart to save their sides, and some one called
that if the swell continued The Virgin would break. A reckless Galway man
with his nephew denied this, hauled up anchor, and rowed over the very
rock itself. Many voices called them to come away, while others dared them
to hold on. As the smooth-backed rollers passed to southward, they hove
the dory high and high into the mist, and dropped her in ugly, sucking,
dimpled water, where she spun round her anchor, within a foot or two of
the hidden rock. It was playing with death for mere bravado; and the boats
looked on in uneasy silence till Long Jack rowed up behind his countrymen
and quietly cut their roding.
'Can't ye hear ut knockin'?' he cried. 'Pull for your miserable lives!
Pull!'
The men swore and tried to argue as the boat drifted; but the next
swell checked a little, like a man tripping on a carpet. There was a deep
sob and a gathering roar, and The Virgin flung up a couple of acres of
foaming water, white, furious, and ghastly over the shoal sea. Then all
the boats greatly applauded Long Jack, and the Galway men held their tongue.
'Ain't it elegant?' said Dan, bobbing like a young seal at home. 'She'll
break about once every ha'af trout now, 'less the swell piles up good.
What's her reg'lar time when she's at work, Tom Platt?'
'Once ivry fifteen minutes, to the tick. Harve, you've seen the greatest
thing on the Banks; an' but fer Long Jack you'd seen some dead men too.'
There came a sound of merriment where the fog lay thicker and the schooners
were ringing their bells. A big barque nosed cautiously out of the mist,
and was received with shouts and cries of, 'Come along, darlin',' from
the Irishry.
'Another Frenchman?' said Harvey.
'Hadn't you eyes? She's a Baltimore* boat, goin' in fear an' tremblin','
said Dan. 'We'll guy the very sticks out of her. Guess it's the fust time
her skipper ever met up with the fleet this way.'
She was a black, buxom eight-hundred-ton craft. Her mainsail was looped
up, and her topsail flapped undecidedly in what little wind was moving.
Now a barque is feminine beyond all other daughters of the sea, and this
tall, hesitating creature, with her white and gilt figurehead, looked just
like a bewildered woman half lifting her skirts to cross a muddy street
under the jeers of bad little boys. That was very much her situation. She
knew she was somewhere in the neighbourhood of The Virgin, had caught the
roar of it, and was, therefore, asking her way.
This is a small part of what she heard from the dancing dories:
'The Virgin? Fwhat are you talkie' av? This is Le Have on a Sunday mornin'.
Go home an' sober up'.
'Go home, ye terrapin!* Go home an' tell 'em we're comin'.'
Half-a-dozen voices together, in a most tuneful chorus, as her stern
went down with a roll and a bubble into the troughs: 'Thay-aah—she—strikes!'
'Hard up! Hard up fer your life! You're on top of her now.'
'Daown! Hard daown! Let go everything!'
'All hands to the pumps!'
'Daown jib an' pole her!'
Here the skipper lost his temper and said things. Instantly fishing
was suspended to answer him, and he heard many curious facts about his
boat and her next port of call. They asked him if he were insured; and
whence he had stolen his anchor, because, they said, it belonged to the
Carrie Pitman; they called his boat a mud-scow,* and accused him of dumping
garbage to frighten the fish; they offered to tow him and charge it to
his wife; and one audacious youth slipped under the counter, smacked it
with his open palm, and yelled, 'Gid up, Buck!'
The cook emptied a pan of ashes on him, and he replied with cod-heads.
The barque's crew fired small coal from the galley, and the dories threatened
to come aboard and 'razee'* her. They would have warned her at once had
she been in real peril; but, seeing her well clear of The Virgin, they
made the most of their chances. The fun was spoilt when the rock spoke
again, a half-mile to windward,* and the tormented barque set everything
that would draw and went her ways; but the dories felt that the honours
lay with them.
All that night The Virgin roared hoarsely; and next morning, over an
angry, white-headed sea, Harvey saw the fleet with flickering masts waiting
for a lead. Not a dory was hove out till ten o'clock, when the two Jeraulds
of the Day's Eye, imagining a lull which did not exist, set the example.
In a minute half the boats were out and bobbing in the cockly swells, but
Troop kept the We're Heres at work dressing-down. He saw no sense in 'dares';
and as the storm grew that evening they had the pleasure of receiving wet
strangers, only too glad to make any refuge in the gale. The boys stood
by the dory-tackles with lanterns, the men ready to haul, one eye cocked
for the sweeping wave that would make them drop everything and hold on
for the dear life. Out of the dark would come a yell of 'Dory, dory!' They
would hook up and haul in entrenched man and a half-sunk boat till their
decks were littered down with nests of dories and the bunks were full.
Five times in their watch did Harvey, with Dan, jump at the foregaff *
where it lay lashed on the boom, and cling with arms, legs, and teeth to
rope and spar and sodden canvas as a big wave filled the decks. One dory
was smashed to pieces and the sea pitched the man head first on to the
decks, cutting his forehead open; and about dawn, when the racing seas
glimmered white all along their cold edges, another man, blue and ghastly,
crawled in with a broken hand, asking news of his brother. Seven extra
mouths sat down to breakfast —a Swede; a Chatham skipper; a boy from Hancock,
Maine;* one Duxbury,* and three Provincetown men.
There was a general sorting out among the fleet next day; and though
no one said anything, all ate with better appetites when boat after boat
reported full crews aboard. Only a couple of Portuguese and an old man
from Gloucester were drowned, but many were cut or bruised; and two schooners
had parted their tackle and been blown to the southward, three days' sail.
A man died on a Frenchman—it was the same barque that had traded tobacco
with the We're Heres. She slipped away quite quietly one wet, white morning,
moved to a patch of deep water, her sails all hanging anyhow, and Harvey
saw the funeral through Disko's spy-glass. It was only an oblong bundle
slid over-side. They did not seem to have any form of service, but in the
night, at anchor, Harvey heard them across the star-powdered black water
singing.
Explanatory notes (for words marked with asterisks)
caplin: or capelin, a small fish found on the coast of Newfoundland,
bait for cod.
Lingua Franca: a language, based upon Italian, used around
the Mediterranean and in the Levant.
Dip-net: small net with a long handle.
sinkers: the weights at the bottom of the cod lines to hold
them down among the cod.
muckles: clubs.
kelp: large seaweed.
scrowger: a crowder, from 'scrooge', to encroach.
Beverly: a town south of Gloucester, Massachusetts.
Baltimore: on Chesapeake Bay, between Philadelphia and Washington.
terrapin: North American turtle, slow moving.
mud-scow: a large, flat-bottomed boat, used as a lighter
or ferry near shore.
razee: reduce the barque in size by removing one of her decks.
windward: the side from which the wind blows. 103 foregaff
the spar from which the foresail is suspended.
Hancock, Maine: port on Frenchman Bay, north of Mount Desert
Island.
Duxbury: Massachusetts, on Plymouth Bay north of Plymouth.
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