[link
to the author's nominees for "Good Mariners"]
April 14, 1998
ISLIP, L.I. -- By 4 A.M., New York's Fulton Fish Market buzzes with
people full-tilt into their workdays. Brightly lighted displays proffer
fish from around the world. But nowadays, some customers think twice about
buying one part of the catch: swordfish. Their reticence should make the
fishing industry and its regulators pay attention.
The swordfish is a magnificent animal that can reach half a ton and
undertake thousand-mile migrations. But because of fishing methods that
kill too many younger fish, it may well be the fastest declining creature
in the Atlantic. The United States National Marine Fisheries Service has
warned that "the commercial fishery may not be viable in 10 years."
Pacific swordfish are doing better, but there, as in the Atlantic, lurks
the other problem in fishing for swords: the methods kill large numbers
of other creatures incidentally snagged in drift nets and long fishing
lines.
Drift nets, the infamous 40-mile "curtains of death" that caught sea
creatures in enormous numbers, have been banned by the United Nations since
1992. Well, not quite -- regulations now limit the nets to a mile and a
half in length. More common now for catching swordfish are "longlines"
-- fishing lines baited with hundreds of hooks that can stretch 25 to 40
miles.
Both methods catch too indiscriminately for their own good. Longlines
take 98 percent of Atlantic swordfish, and more than 80 percent of the
female swordfish they catch are immature, killed before they can breed.
Until the 1960's nearly all swordfish were caught by harpoon, which
took only adult fish and killed no other sea creatures in the bargain.
But most swordfish harpooners are now out of business because few fish
survive to grow large enough. Longliners in the American Atlantic discard,
dead, about 40 percent of the swordfish they catch -- the fish are too
small to sell.
In 1996 Atlantic swordfishers dumped 40,000 dead juvenile swordfish.
Like a maladaptive parasite that kills its own host, longline depletion
caused the amount of East Coast swordfish brought to port to plummet almost
60 percent from 1989 to 1996.
Swordfish are not the only animals being wasted. In the best-studied
region, the North Atlantic, longliners discard 1 fish in 4, helping to
deplete marlin, giant tuna and sharks. In the Pacific, thousands of albatrosses
also get hooked annually and drown after grabbing longline bait. American
longliners in most of the Pacific aren't required to use albatross-saving
devices mandated in Alaska, New Zealand, Australia and the Antarctic. And
the practice of killing sharks only for their fins, banned on the East
Coast, is still allowed in Pacific Federal waters. That's inexcusable.
Who's in charge? A multinational fishing commission sets Atlantic quotas.
It hasn't reduced catches enough to stop East Coast population declines.
The National Marine Fisheries Service has authority within 200 miles of
all American coastlines. It could, if made to feel inclined, restrict indiscriminate
fishing gear or close areas where young fish congregate. The latter step
would pay extra dividends -- young marlins and certain tunas use the same
nursery areas as swordfish, so they too would be protected.
American swordfishers, who take a third of the North Atlantic catch,
say that unilateral restrictions won't fix an international problem. But
when only American boats stopped fishing in the 1970's because mercury
levels in swordfish exceeded health standards, the fish bounced back in
less than a decade.
The depletion and incidental kills involved in swordfishing also exists
in some other fisheries. These problems are beginning to draw a public
response.
Royal Caribbean and Celebrity Cruise Lines,
being good mariners, have announced that they will deftly steer clear of
swordfish; they've canceled 20 tons of orders. And more than a hundred
top chefs and Bon Appetit magazine have pledged swordfish abstinence.
[for
more on Dr. Safina's "good mariners" - from another perspective]
The take-home message for the fishing industry and its well-paid lobbyists
and captive regulatory agencies is this: With management slow to end overfishing
and reduce collateral killing, consumers are ready to respond, with their
wallets.
If recovery plans are adopted, nursery areas closed and fishing gear
made safer for young fishes, endangered albatrosses, dolphins and endangered
turtles, seafood lovers will have less to be concerned about. Till then,
swordfish everywhere might suggest: "Try the pasta."
Copyright 1998 by The New York Times |